Whether skiing, snowboarding, ice climbing or tour to go on: winter sports in the nature. In times when climate protection is at the heart of societal debates, have also tried the Outdoor-clothing manufacturer to a green footprint.
Because this is not only good for the planet – it can also be a good sell, even if many solutions are not likely to be the ultimate in terms of sustainability.
This is reflected in concentrated Form on the Ispo in Munich. The exhibition (until 29. January) is an exhibition of the textile companies – and sustainability is the dominant theme.
Recycled yarn, biodegradable Jackets, waiver of impregnations: The green Efforts at the same time, a dense thicket of terminology, the consumer have to fight through.
Outdoor fashion: As organic in the supermarket
“There are brands that are already a couple of years and is very sustainable. But everyone is trying to go with the concept of peddling is basically the same as in the food sector with the theme of organic,” says the journalist, Ralf Stefan Beppler.
You could put it in a different way: Some are serious, and the search for a greener footprint, while others proclaim, but in reality only a kind of “Greenwashing” to operate, therefore, as environmentally conscious not to put, although in the it and sustainability, mainly as a marketing issue to understand.
“This is, of course, a difficulty,” said Beppler. For average outdoor fashion buyers, it is hardly possible to tell the difference.
In order to ensure functions such as water tightness and breathability, put companies on sophisticated technologies, in which plastic plays a Central role.
In the product descriptions are, for example, ‘Free of PFCec’, ‘Eco-DWR treatment’ or other names, but decrypt without the basic knowledge in the matter really.
Criticism of a shortcut
The abbreviation PFCec, for example, interferes with Beppler. The ec stand for “without environmental concern”.
“Which means, The manufacturers claim that there is a PFC without the impact on the environment.” But one question, the a chemist, he would deny it. “What is it, are not PFC, where you have to know exactly how they have an impact on the environment.”
This criticism is aimed, for example, the membrane manufacturer Gore, the Gore-Tex products, many companies are using. You wanted to eliminate by the year 2023 all the environmental concern PFC (PFCec) from the life-cycle of its outdoor products, is it of Gore.
The fluoropolymer PTFE is about does not count from the point of view of the manufacturer of the environmentally harmful PFCs. However, this is controversial – other membrane manufacturer hereby expressly waive this substance.
Free of impregnation
And what is DWR? The shortcut assumes, in principle, the impregnation of a textile. Often manufacturers advertise that you will be PFC-free.
The French Label, Picture Organic Clothing has turn into the new membrane XPore neither polyfluorinated chemicals (PFC) solvents and dispensed with an impregnation.
Also, Helly Hansen continues in his Lifa-a tissue with no impregnation. The tissue hold the water that way, says a company spokesman.
In General, more clarity and less cryptic technologies were Bepplers point of view, is desirable: “Complicated names, and is not quite correct statements make it for consumers to be complicated.”
It would be easier, would be talking to the industry is clear, – the expert believes.
Down jacket to the compost
Of approaches for more sustainability in winter sports fashion in Particular, and the outdoor fashion in General is not lacking, however.
The down jacket Farbaute the Swedish company Klättermusen, for example, is compostable. Three months it should take, then only the zipper, the snaps and a pile of earth from the fabric left.
“But this must not be an active compost that anyone can bunch of”, restricts an employee at the booth of the manufacturer.
A similar goal will have the synthetic organic fibers of Primaloft, which is set to come of the season 2020/21 for the first time – for example, in products from horsefeathers, Jack Wolfskin or the Maloja.
Under certain conditions, as they prevail around on rubbish dumps, to digest microorganisms, the fibres and degrade the ingredients. Water, carbon dioxide, methane, and biomass will remain.
If New from Old is
The German manufacturer PYUA recycled old textiles, and produces a new set of clothes – Closed-Loop Recycling, the manufacturer calls it, i.e. a closed cycle of recycling.
“As long as we are working on recycling solutions, nothing is wrong with plastic”, said Rüdiger Fox, managing Director of the membrane manufacturer Sympatex in a round-table discussion at the Ispo.
Because Recycling save energy and raw materials. However, it is not available for all products. “Pure Polyester is easy to recycle”, but a jacket or pants is made of many plastics, and a minimum of nearly variety, it is just difficult.
So point of view, it is thought, from Fox’s to short, if companies use recycled materials, you can mix with other substances, so that these can not be used after the Discard again.
“You will move the load only on the later years.” Sympatex uses Fox that only recyclable Membrane, and Laminates.
Hemp against müffelnde feet
Another approach to Sustainability of natural substances. For example, the outdoor clothing for children and teenagers specialized manufacturer Isbjörn of Sweden in the function of underwear Husky Baselayer now the bamboo fibers on the inner side.
You will sweat, wicking it away from the skin and also very soft to the touch.
Another Plant that is always mentioned more frequently in connection with outdoor clothing is hemp. The advantage: For the cultivation there was little need for artificial irrigation and, mostly, no pesticides.
As a yarn processed to hemp odors inhibit – understandable, then, that the manufacturer Royal Robbins produces socks made from hemp.
In addition, they also contain hair of Yaks, the anti bacterial effect and according to the manufacturer, also against the Stink of the feet helps.
Deutsche Presse-Agentur (dpa)
*The contribution of “Fair Fashion: How sustainable outdoor fashion can be?” is published by FitForFun. Contact with the executives here.